The bayside suburb of St Kilda has long been seen as Melbourne’s seedy underbelly, the equivalent of Sydney’s King’s Cross, London’s Soho, or New York’s Times Square. But as with most of those locations, a decade or two of gentrification has dimmed the red lights somewhat; these days, the only remaining street walkers left in St Kilda are likely to survive not so much because of the blind eye turned by the local vice squad, but due to the National Trust giving the hookers a heritage listing. So leaving my car in an offstreet car park in St Kilda is no longer the anxiety-ridden exercise it may have once been