Our hire car’s headlights briefly illuminate a sign by the roadside. From the top it reads Ungarie 42, Condobolin 105, Lake Cargelligo 115. A smile creeps across Neale Daniher’s face. ‘When we see the name Ungarie we know we’re almost home.’ The outskirts of West Wyalong disappear as the last rays of sunshine fade. It is May 2008. We are in southern New South Wales, 550 kilometres from Sydney and around 600 from Melbourne.