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Seventy Years of Exploration in Oceanography Part 3

Norman Barber ("Bánh xe Barber") đến từ Vương quốc Anh để giúp phân tích [85]. Và có chúng tôi, sóng từ các cơn bão xa đến trong thông qua cửa sổ hẹp giữa New Zealand và Nam Cực Đối với một sự kiện căng thẳng đặc biệt, chúng tôi cảm thấy tự tin để "đảo ngược" làn sóng dữ liệu để vẽ một bản đồ thời tiết của khu vực nguồn. | 8 1 Waves and Wave Spectra Island 100 km west of San Diego . Norman Barber of the Barber Wheel came over from the UK to help with the analysis 85 . And there we were waves from the distant storms came in through the narrow window between New Zealand and Antarctica For one particularly intense event we felt confident to invert the wave data to sketch a weather map of the source region. It showed a storm centered on an island called Heard Island in the Indian Ocean at 52 degrees south. von Storch So that s where the swell begins. You mentioned a third expedition. Munk Having established some of the great circle wave paths we thought that it would be interesting to occupy a set of stations along such a path 96 . We chose six stations New Zealand Samoa Palmyra an uninhabited equatorial island Hawaii the Scripps ship FLIP and Yakutat Alaska. I took Samoa Fig. 1.2 Klaus took Hawaii Gaylord Miller our only graduate student took Alaska. We were able to follow wave disturbances for 10 000 km all the way from source to finish. von Storch What else did you learn Munk By then Klaus had done the pioneering work on wave-wave scattering and we spaced the stations to measure the scattering of the southern swell by the trade Fig. 1.2 Measuring ocean swell from a Fale in Tutuila American Samoa 1963 . Walter had persuaded Judith to take the 0400 daily watch of swell recording. Edie Kendall Judith Walter and Silau playing the guitar 1.3 Where the Swell Begins 9 wind sea. This turned out to be negligible all measurable scattering occurred before the waves left their generation area. So in retrospect the stations were not well spaced. But we could place an upper limit on attenuation. Curiously only now more than fifty years later our attenuation estimate of 0.2 dB per 1000 km was useful in some new work on nonlinear wave interactions. Hasselmann Indeed we have come a long way in the wave forecasting business since the first large-scale multi-wave-station measurements you initiated in .